Hi I’m currently about to embark on upgrading tank to a profile 1200 as I am moving house in a weeks time, I know this isn’t the ideal timespan for transferring my fish from my rekord 96 to a new tank in order for it to be fully matured but the way things have worked out and due to my Mum being ill that’s the way things have panned out, I want my new tank to be planted and am looking for some wood in the aquascape, and rocks maybe, with a general idea of having an Amazon or South american type of biotope.
I have ordered 40kg of the smallest size of dorset gravel and a bag of eco complete for plants (which has been part of the reason for lack of time as i ordered it from an online dealer last monday only to be told on friday that it wasn’t in stock till this tuesday and thats why my order hasn’t arrived! I would have chose an alternative if they had just contacted me!!).
Is the Eco complete one of the best plant substrates? Should I use it just in the areas i want plants or use it underneath or over the top of the gravel substrate, or should i go for a different alternative? I also ordered upon recommendation some Evolution Aqua Pure Aquarium Balls as I have such a short time span to transplant my fish (13 barbs, 9 tiger, 4 cherry, 2 bristlenose, 6 black neons, 2 bolivian rams, 4 p82 gardeneri killifish) and have been told they are great for biological maturing in a short period, I will also be transplanting some seeded media from my Juwel to the 405 filter and as much water as possible, my current tank is planted with lots of valeris and some java fern, aand all water parameters are spot on and have been for the last 12 months.
So i guess my question is what would you recommend in the aquascaping and planting of the new tank in terms of plants, wood, and rock(if any) as I have drifted slightly from the South American theme in my current tank with the Barbs it is not set in stone thats what I want but thats what I would like to aim towards, any helpful advice would be really appreciated.
Thanks
Tim
Hi Tim
Eco Complete is a good substrate. Its been around for a while but there are better substrates available now, one’s which are more modern and have a better effect on plants and water.
Unfortunately, pea gravel offers nothing for plants apart from an anchor, so it provides zero benefits for plants and not something I would recommend. A much better option would be to use Colombo Flora Base in which you need 10L per 60L of water. Find the product here http://www.aquaessentials.co.uk/colombo-flora-base-black-10-litres-p-4595.html. This product not only looks great but offers superb nutrition for your plants and it sets a slightly acidic pH too which means plants grow quickly due to the ideal environment.
In any planted aquarium you should always aim to have at least 80% of the tank full of plants. Using less plants is actually for the more experienced hobbyist as it’s much trickier to get the balance right.
Eco Complete is designed to be used on it’s own so does not need topping or anything below it. By using it with pea gravel, you’re diluting the Eco Complete considerably so not something I recommend.
I think the easiest way for you to go forward would be to opt for one of our plants, wood rock boxes where you get a great mix of all 3. Just decide on the size you need and we do the rest. You can find these here http://www.aquaessentials.co.uk/plants-plant-kits-c-545_255_523.html
How does this sound?
Hi richard thanks for the swift reply, one slight problem is that i have just been informed via e-mail that my order for the gravel and eco-complete has just been sent out(annoying as i specifically asked them to ring beforehand) so its gonna be a case of trying to work with what i have really, I should have also mentioned that i’m on a tight budget and the tank is approx 320l.
I do like some of the feature wood on your site what would you recommend in that respect, I don’t mind having a small number of plants or a few varieties that will mature over time, it doesn’t have to be an instantly stunning tank, how would you suggest i work with what i have now got and within the unfortunate time and financial restraints, I’m trying to juggle moving, setting up the tank and visiting my Mum all at the same time! Not an ideal situation but thats the one i’m dealing with!
As i mentioned previously i can transplant some of the Vallisneria from my other tank, and java fern, plus I have some moss balls, some small bogwood, a large resin Log with caves(which i’d prefer not to use as im looking for a more natural look) and various rocks. I would like a feature piece of wood to replace the resin log, and is their anything I can mix with the gravel or lay under it to make it more suitable for plant growth? (I have managed to grow various basic plants over the last 12 months from my lfs, just in the gravel in my tank now, with no additives whatsoever!)
I’m glad I can help so far.
Always buy the most amount of plants that your budget will allow. Only a few plants is always difficult so the more the better. A lot of people do try investing as little as possible in plants with the view that they grow, but normally regret this. Algae takes hold because the levels are wrong, too little ferts and CO2 etc etc.
Put as many plants as you can into your new tank, and keep the lighting to a minimum for several weeks (6-7 hours per day) so the plants can settle in. Fertilise with AE Design Aqua Nourish http://www.aquaessentials.co.uk/ae-design-aqua-nourish-500ml-p-3948.html
Pop some root tabs into the substrate which will help (these one’s are great) http://www.aquaessentials.co.uk/tropica-plant-nutrition-capsules-x-36-p-1252.html
Some (but very few) plants will survive with very little, taking nutrients from the fish waste etc, but if you’re serious about your tank (and it sounds as if you are), you need liquid fertilisers as well.
Hi thanks again for y0ur reply, i have placed an order on a few items i am now considering just moving the current tank i have by bagging up the fish, barrelling the water and moving the tank in as quick as time possible to get them safely to my new place, i feel it may be better and less risky, (but not ideal!) for the fish to move them in this way rather than rush and not set up my new larger tank properly, risking high ammonia levels and the new tank syndrome tank can occur in new set ups. -Plus it means i can tajke more time in getting the new tank up and running properly any advise on safely transplanting a tank, lock, stock and barrel to a new location? I have a polystyrene fish box for the move and was just going to get a large plastic container for the water, and try to do it in as quick a time as possible.
Also could you tell me if you would class the profile 1200 as a high light set up, it has 4 T5 bulbs, just wondering if i would be better with aqua nourish +
4 x T5s would be considered as high light. So you would need Aqua Nourish and Aqua Nourish+ (remember they both offer different nutrients)
Morning Tim
It’s a good idea what you have done with your fish.
Regarding moving a tank, just take it slowly and ask for help with moving it. Take as much of the water as you can but don’t stress too much about that.
Ok thanks Richard when I get the new Profile up and running and planted I will order some of the nutrients you recommend, thanks for the advise
Do you think with my profile 1200 it may be worth using co2 also?
Absolutely. Any planted aquarium will always benefit from pressurised CO2. In your case this is the set I would recommend for you. The DD Complete CO2 Set.
It contains everything you need to get you going into the world of CO2
Great stuff.
Hear from you soon and keep me posted.
To be honest if I was going to use co 2 i would prefer an organic/bio setup, is there one available or what would be the best method for a tank of the size i’m going to set up?
For your sized tank the only option is pressurised. Bio Set ups are OK but they’re quite unstable (which algae love). Maintain stability of CO2 with pressurised gas and your problems are halved.
Hi again Richard I am still not quite there yet with the tank, as I am trying to get everything i need as cheaply as possible before i start, I know you reccommended the DD complete kit for provision of co2, but i have been looking into setting up my own, I notice you sell all the equipment required seperately, so what would I need to set up ,y own pressurized co2 set up, I have already sourced a local fire extinguisher seller who will provide me with a 2kg bottle for £15, I just need the rest of the kit to go with it, what would you suggest for my 350l tank? as cheaply as possible please,
thanks
Tim
You would need:
Regulator (DIN477 connection)
Solenoid valve
Easy Aqua CO2 Set
Drop checker
Bromo Blue solution
That’s it for your CO2 system!
Thanks Richard could you end me an e-mail with what I would require and the cost, bearing in mind my aquarium is approx 300-350 L and using my own co2
can you also tell me what the 4 dkh solution is for and how to use it?
Hi Tim
If you add the goods to your basket you’ll be able to see the cost.
I hope this helps.
4dkh bromo blue solution is the required solution to place in your drop checker to monitor the CO2 levels.
See here for details http://www.aquaessentials.co.uk/ae-design-4-dkh-solution-with-bromo-blue-100ml-p-2425.html
Hi again, Just wondering which diffuser you would recommend for my tank, what about the inline ones will they fit on the fluval 405 filter, as it has the easy connect system? I noticed you no longer do the Easy Aqua CO2 Set as mentioned above.
Also are the ones that go straight in the tank and diffuse best or the atomizer ones?
Either either. The most important thing is getting enough CO2 into the tank.
Try the Easy Aqua Atomiser Large – should be fine in your tank
I don’t know the tubing size of the 405, but if it’s 12 or 16mm, you could try the inline type.
I now have a question on lighting my tank comes with 2 t5 lighting units each has 2 tubes in, the tubes i got with my tanks are the Hagen Power Glo (18,000 K) x 2 and Life Glo (6700 K) x 2, what order should i put these in or does it not matter, should i mix one of each in each light unit or do one light unit with power glo & one with life glo, and if each unit is one type of bulb should the power glo be towards the front or rear of the tank? Also if I wanted to provide some form of night/evening/dusk light in one of the units what tubes would be best and will this then effect my plant growth, or do they still benefit from a dusk type light?
Thanks
It doesn’t matter to be honest so put them which ever way round you wish.
You can put in night tubes should you need to – these do not benefit plants in any way but do enhance your own viewing pleasure. We don’t sell any though.
I have also just picked up The Ecology Of The planted Aquarium book by D Walstad, but it seems she recommends a more basic natural approach to plant growth as opposed to hi tech (high light, co2 injection etc) approach, do you rate this book and could you recommend any other books that may be useful?
The book is useful, but rather old for my liking. Things have moved on a long way since she wrote the book.
If you want exciting results you have to go high tech without any question of doubt.
Other useful books – google Takashi Amano on Amazon. Full of inspiration.
thanks Richard just got the complete works!
Hi again richard, Up and running now with co2 plants and fish, but i’m having problems with Blue/Green Algae or Slime Algae, it has begun to cover many plants, and substrate and bog wood, i have vaccumed much of it up and performed water changes and it seems to have come back more! I had some phosphate problems when setting up which i thought was related to my tank water only to discover that my tap water is high in Phosphates, i have now included a phosphate remover in my filter to remove some of it, down to 1-2.5 ppm now, previously it was 5 plus, I have good circulation in my tank, and a variety of species of fish Otinculous, Black Phantom Tetra & Cardinals, a few South american Puffers, bolivian rams, a GN plec. the plant is quite heavily planted with a variety of species, general foreground mid ground and a few “feature” plants, i also have 10 shrimp about somewhere! What are the treatments for BG algae like and are they safe, the algae looks like a green slime that is removable in sheets, i’m worried about it effecting my fish and plants, help!
Tim
Phosphate is good for planted aquariums – it’s a macro nutrient and therefore you need a lot of it when using CO2. Stripping it out causes a deficiency and creates algae just like you have.
I suggest you take out your phosphate remover, reduce lighting to 6 hours a day and then see how things progress. Also make sure you’re using decent fertilisers like the one’s we sell making sure you offer trace elements and macro elements.
You can also try this algae remover solution. Easy Life AlgExit http://www.aquaessentials.co.uk/easy-life-algexit-250ml-p-5910.html
well i haven’t totally removed it , just reduced it to 1.5 – 2.5 ppm, as my tap water is 5+, i am also using a macro and micro fert mix, this also contains phosphate so i presumed with what was already in the water it was encouraging algae, but as i described i don’t think what i have is Algae it is the slime like Cyanobacteria, which i read is not algae at all, would i not be better with this http://www.aquaessentials.co.uk/easy-life-blueexit-250ml-p-6107.html
or should i use both, i do not seem to be suffering from other types of algae, i am also using the “Siesta” lighting method of on for 4-5 hrs a 3 hour break and then on again for 4-5 hours.
If you have Cyanobacteria then try the Blueexit. The key is diagnosing which algae you have and then treating the problem. Remember these are only short term fixes so you have to address the root of the problem if you are to get over the issues.
Siestas make no difference to algae growth and in my opinion hinders plant growth. I would keep your lighting on for 6-8 hours per day in one sitting.